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White Rim Trail, Moab, Utah - 2005

In March and June of 2005, I rode the White Rim Trail in Moab, Utah on my BMW Adventure.  The condition of the trail was drastically different on each of the trips, with the March ride being the most difficult.  Although in general the trail is extremely easy, and it is more of a test of endurance than riding skill.  The scenery is amazing and definitely makes this a must for any adventurous dirt bike or dual sport rider.

First a little background on the trail.  Although the White Rim is called a "trail", it is technically a maintained park road in Canyonlands National Monument.  Because it is a maintained road, all vehicles are supposed to be street legal, and I actually did run into a park ranger around mile 50 on the trail.  Since the trail is within the monument boundary, you are also expected to pay the daily fee.  Neither of these two technicalities came into play on my rides as you will see in my following description.

La Sal Mountains from the White Rim Trail

The trail can be ridden as loop with a few short spur rides along its length.  In all, the trail is over 100 miles in length, including over 80 miles of dirt, rock and sand depending on your route and side trips.  Obviously you can ride the trail in either direction, however I rode it in a clockwise direction both times; the first time by happenstance and the second time by design as I describe below.  The trail is a very popular mountain bike trail in the spring and fall (the only times that it is not -20 or +200 degrees).  Most people biking the trail do so with a support vehicle and usually take anywhere from two to four days, camping at the several permit-required camp sites spread along the trail.  Even on a mountain bike this trail is far from technical- it is just very long with a few steep climbs and descents.  The trail can easily be ridden in under 8-hours on a dual sport motorcycle and even faster on a dirt bike.

In March, I rode the trail two-up with my wife on my BMW Adventure.  The temperature in early march was perfect; just cool enough to keep all your gear on.  The trail had not yet been graded by the park service service, and the

Rock Pinnacles Above the White Rim Trail

 relatively dry winter did little for compacting the miles of deep sand.  We started the trail by riding up Potash Canyon from Moab and then taking the Shafer Trail to the White Rim Trail just below the Shafer switch backs.  The Shafer Trail is fairly easy with one tippy and rocky slope.  This section of the trail is gorgeous since you are directly below Dead Horse Point and can ride right up to the canyon edge and peer down at the Colorado River.

After reaching the White Rim Trail, we switched directions and starting riding south-southeast.  This part of the White rim is very easy and seems to be quite popular due to the easy accessibility of Muscle Man Arch, just a couple of miles up the trail.  Muscle Man Arch is right next to the trail and is worth the stop.  This is one of the few arches that you can easily walk out onto, or if you are in dire need of proving your manhood to your friends (who probably could care less), you can actually ride your motorcycle out onto the arch.  I'm sure the park rangers would love to shoot anyone who attempts this feat, but I'd have to say it would make a pretty cool picture.

Typical scene on the White Rim Trail

After Muscle Man arch the White Rim Trail basically follows the canyon edge, swerving in and out of the landscape to go around everyone of several side canyons.  The scenery is beautiful and this section of the trail is extremely easy.  In fact the only thing you have to watch is your speed since I encountered several washouts that came up rather quickly at 50+ miles per hour, some of which could have easily eaten my bike and me whole.

The next feature of the ride is Lathrop Canyon.  The first time I rode the trail (when I was two-up), I opted not to ride this spur, which I later confirmed was a wise idea.  The second trip (when I was solo) I opted to take this side trail.  Overall the trail is fairly easy with some small one to two-foot rock ledges, a short but steep and twisty descent/ climb into and out of the canyon, and lots of deep sand.  Most of this trail is in the bottom of the wash, so if there is any danger of flooding, you will want to save this trail for a dryer day.  The trail is fairly fun, and adds a bit of semi-more challenging terrain to the White Rim.  Lathrop Canyon ends at the Colorado River with a few shade trees, picnic tables, and an outhouse.  On a hot day, a dip in the river makes you feel great before the long and dusty ride out of the canyon.

Monument Basin

Once back on the White Rim, the trail continues in a generally south direction to the turn-off to White Crack campground.  In early spring, there was about a mile of loose sand before the White Crack turn off.  The second time I rode the trail this section had been graded and was as hard as asphalt.  It is after the turn off to the White Crack campground that the White Rim trail becomes a little more interesting.

Immediately after the White Crack turn off, the trail starts climbing, dropping and twisting, although the trail surface is still easy.  There are a few tricky turns that are steep and sharp, and then there is Murphy's Hogback.  Riding solo, the hogback is nothing but a steep climb with some loose rocks.  Riding two-up will scare the hell

Looking Down the East Side of Murphy's Hogback

 out of your passenger and will give you two extra punches on your man-card.  Likewise riding down the other side of Murphy's is steep, but no big deal riding solo.   If you plan to do it two-up, make sure your brakes are in good-working order and start way-back in your saddle, because both you and your passenger will be sitting on top of the gas tank by the time you reach the bottom! 

Keyhole Arch - Keep your eyes peeled down the side canyons!

After Murphy's the White Rim trail remains easy but much more interesting (and subsequently fun) than the prior 50 miles up to White Crack.  The trail has many more variations of twisty turns, steep climbs, sand and slick rock.  Although here again, the park service finds it necessary to remove any obstacles (such as sand) that might keep people who shouldn't be out there in the first place from going there.  The second time I road the trail, almost all of the sand had been graded, leaving a rock hard surface that almost any yuppie suv could negotiate.  Although during early spring, there were several sections of deep sand that kept you on your toes.

The next adventure on the trail is Hard Scrabble Hill.  This section of the trail is again easy, but steep, loose, and narrow with a few hairpin turns.  The greatest danger (besides screwing up and falling off the edge) would be encountering another vehicle going the opposite direction.  If you see another

The Machine & The Rim

 vehicle on the hill from below, it would pay to wait until they are clear of the hill before you start.

Hardscrabble contours around the cliff face before it drops into Hardscrabble Bottom.  This drop is probably the scariest and most difficult section of the trail, in my opinion.  The trail turns sharply and then drops straight down to the Hardscrabble Campground.  The steepest part of this drop has semi-deep and loose sand, is very narrow, and has a drop off to the right.  It is impossible to stop on this section and the easiest way to descend it is basically a controlled slide- now try convincing your passenger of that when riding two-up!

After Hardscrabble, I noticed the biggest difference between the two times I rode the trail this year.  Early in the

Between Murphy's Hogback & Hardscrabble Hill

 spring, this section of trail was nothing but deep sand, almost all the way out to the Mineral Bottom switch backs.  In fact, I got stuck in one small wash and had to make several runs at it to avoid burying my Adventure up to its rear wheel hub in sand.  The second time I rode the trail, this entire section of trail had been graded and was like riding on asphalt.  Even though the sand was a pain in the ass, I was still rather disappointed that it wasn't there later in the summer, being that I had psyched myself up to kick its ass.

Finally the White Rim reaches the Mineral Bottom switch backs.  The first time I encountered these it was dusk and I was riding by the shine of my PIAA lights when all of a sudden the trail turned and starting heading straight for the massive cliff wall.  I just kept thinking that there had to be a tunnel... there just had to be!  Although very intimidating from below, the Mineral Bottom switch backs are a piece of cake- graded dirt and one of the wider sections of the trail.

Green River from the White Rim Trail

From the top of the Mineral Bottom switchbacks, there is a long and boring ride out to the main road in Canyonlands.  This road is graded, hard packed, and very well maintained.  But after spending all day on the White Rim, this section is boring as hell.  Once Mineral Bottom road intersects the asphalt park road, you can simply ride this back to Moab or wherever your final destination may be.  Overall this is a must-do if ever in the Moab area on a dual sport bike.  Take lots of water, fuel, and a camera.

For those of you who have motorcycles that are not exactly street legal, but want to still ride the White Rim (fully realizing that it is illegal to ride the White Rim on a non-street legal bike), here is one way you could do it- not that I have ever done it.  Park your trailer at the turn-off to Long Canyon (Jug Handle Arch) in Potash Canyon.  Assuming you are going to ride the White Rim in a clockwise direction, ride your dirt bike from this parking area to the end of Potash Canyon.  This is all asphalt, but is a very short stretch with little traffic.  Ride up Shafer Trail and ride the White Rim in a clockwise direction as described in this article.  Once you reach the main park road on Mineral Bottom road you can either A) press your luck and ride a few miles on the park road, taking the turn to Dead Horse State Park and then turning off into Long Canyon, or B) link a few of the primitive trails in the area to reach Long Canyon without going on the park road.  Descend Long Canyon and voila, you are back at your trailer with minimal street riding!  Of course this should never be attempted.

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